Chef RV's Special Filipino Ensaymada
Rich, buttery Filipino brioche coils crowned with cloud-soft whipped buttercream and a blizzard of sharp grated queso de bola, developed by Chef RV Manabat.
Nothing encapsulates the warmth, heritage, and pure celebration of Filipino baking quite like a golden, freshly baked Special Ensaymada. Pillowy soft, intensely buttery, and adorned with a luscious crown of whipped buttercream and sharp, salty shredded cheese, it is the undisputed king of Filipino afternoon merienda.
Showcased by acclaimed pastry chef and culinary educator Chef RV Manabat, this masterclass recipe elevates the classic sweet dough into an ethereal brioche experience. By utilizing a generous blend of eight egg portions (six rich yolks plus two whole eggs), slow kneading, and pure butter, the resulting crumb is melt-in-your-mouth tender, delicately sweet, and deeply aromatic.
The Fascinating Heritage of Filipino Ensaymada
The Filipino ensaymada traces its lineage back centuries to the Balearic Island of Mallorca, Spain, where traditional spiral pastries known as ensaïmada were leavened and rolled with pork lard (known in Catalan as saïm). Over generations, Filipino bakers reimagined this European pastry, replacing lard with rich native butter, infusing sweet egg-rich doughs, and finishing them with fine sugar and aged cheese like Dutch queso de bola (Edam cheese). Today, towns like Malolos, Bulacan and Pampanga boast their own historical variations, making ensaymada an enduring national culinary treasure.
Chef RV's Pro Tips for Bakery-Perfect Ensaymadas
- Room Temperature Butter: Ensure your butter is completely soft and pliable before creaming it with powdered sugar and cream cheese for the topping. Cold butter creates lumps and tears the delicate buns during frosting.
- Windowpane Test: Because of the heavy fat and yolk content, kneading takes 12 to 15 minutes by hand or 8 to 10 minutes in a stand mixer. Stretch a small piece of dough; it should form a translucent membrane without ripping.
- Proofing Patience: Never rush the second rise. Let the shaped spiral buns rise in their molds until doubled in size and visibly airy before placing them in the preheated oven.
- Cheese Pairing: For the ultimate authentic contrast between sweet and savory, mix finely shredded mature Queso de Bola (Edam) with mild cheddar cheese.
Ingredients
-
1 cup
-
½ cupSubstitutes for Granulated Sugar:Honey Ratio: 3/4 cup honey = 1 cup sugarMaple Syrup Ratio: 3/4 cup syrup = 1 cup sugar
-
1 tbspSubstitutes for Instant Dry Yeast:Active Dry Yeast Ratio: 1:1 (bloom first)
-
145 Dairy
-
6
-
2 EggsSubstitutes for Eggs:Flax Egg Ratio: 1 tbsp ground flax + 3 tbsp water = 1 egg (Vegan)
-
5 ¼ Gluten
-
¼ tsp
-
1 cup Dairy
-
¼ cup Dairy
-
½ cupSubstitutes for Granulated Sugar:Honey Ratio: 3/4 cup honey = 1 cup sugarMaple Syrup Ratio: 3/4 cup syrup = 1 cup sugar
-
1 cup
-
½ cup DairySubstitutes for Cheddar Cheese:Monterey Jack Ratio: 1:1
Watch How to Make It
1. Activate the Yeast and Form Dough
Ensure water is pleasantly warm, not hot (above 115°F can kill yeast).
2. Incorporate Butter and Knead to Windowpane
The dough will start sticky but will become supple and silky as gluten develops.
3. First Bulk Fermentation
A slightly humid, draft-free spot like an unheated oven with the light on is ideal.
4. Shape Spiral Coils
Tucking the outer tail underneath prevents the coil from unraveling during baking.
5. Second Rise and Bake
Do not overbake; keeping the crust light golden ensures a soft, tender bun.
6. Frost with Buttercream & Generous Cheese
Slightly warming an ensaymada in the toaster oven for 10 seconds before eating makes the butter and cheese melt heavenly together!
All Steps Completed!
You've successfully finished cooking this recipe.
Directions
Step 1: Activate the Yeast and Form Dough
In a bowl or stand mixer bowl, dissolve 1 tablespoon of sugar and instant yeast in lukewarm water. Let bloom for 5 minutes until frothy. Add remaining sugar, egg yolks, whole eggs, and half the flour. Mix with paddle attachment until combined.
Ensure water is pleasantly warm, not hot (above 115°F can kill yeast).
Step 2: Incorporate Butter and Knead to Windowpane
Add the remaining flour, salt, and softened butter. Switch to dough hook and knead on medium speed for 10-12 minutes until dough is smooth, elastic, and passes the windowpane test.
The dough will start sticky but will become supple and silky as gluten develops.
Step 3: First Bulk Fermentation
Transfer the dough to a lightly greased bowl, cover with a damp cloth or cling wrap, and let rise in a warm spot for 60 to 75 minutes or until doubled in size.
A slightly humid, draft-free spot like an unheated oven with the light on is ideal.
Step 4: Shape Spiral Coils
Punch down dough and divide into 12 equal portions (approx 75-80g each). Roll each piece into a thin rectangle, brush lightly with softened butter, roll tightly into a cylinder, and curl into a snail spiral coil. Place into greased ensaymada molds or baking pan.
Tucking the outer tail underneath prevents the coil from unraveling during baking.
Step 5: Second Rise and Bake
Let shaped ensaymadas rise again for 30 to 40 minutes until visibly puffy. Preheat oven to 350°F (175°C). Bake for 18-20 minutes until lightly golden brown on top.
Do not overbake; keeping the crust light golden ensures a soft, tender bun.
Step 6: Frost with Buttercream & Generous Cheese
Whip 1 cup softened butter, cream cheese, and powdered sugar until fluffy and pale. Once ensaymadas are completely cool, spread a thick layer of buttercream over each bun and smother generously with grated queso de bola and cheddar.
Slightly warming an ensaymada in the toaster oven for 10 seconds before eating makes the butter and cheese melt heavenly together!
Comments (0)